Keeping the spirit alive at Jacoby’s

The massive wall of beers and liquors behind Jacoby's historic, original bar.

Four generations of Jacobys have owned and operated the small bar located on Brush and Congress, but although it’s no longer in the hands of a family member, Jacoby’s German Biergarten is holding strong as a staple of downtown Detroit history. And as far as beer goes, any Detroiter would be hard pressed to find a better spot for craft, local and imported deliciousness.
With its foundation laid in the early 1800s, Jacoby’s is all exposed brick and dark wood; the perfect environment for sampling a Belgian strong ale or German dunkel.  There are over 100 beers to try on tap and in bottles, and the staff is trained to be as knowledgeable as possible.  Which is helpful, especially for someone with no problem trying new beers.

Round one: Goose Island IPA.
India Pale Ales are no joke, so starting off with one is not for the faint of, well, taste, I guess.  An alcohol by volume (ABV) of 5.9% and a smooth, clear golden orange color are standard with this kind of beer.  Its taste is dry, malty and with a long, hoppy finish that satisfies any IPA fan.  One pint of this could start a nice little buzz going, but why stop there?

Round two: Rogue Dead Guy.
A personal favorite,  Dead Guy is considered to be in the style of a German Maibock, which is just a variation on Bock, or dark, strong lager.  This beer, weighing in at 6.5% ABV, pours a hazy, orange brown color with a hop smell to make any beer lover smile.  It’s easily drinkable and refreshing, and could be a great way to end the night, but since this is for research, I think I’ll pace myself.
Looking over the menu, it’s clear that the bar’s roots are solidly German, with few changes made in the nearly 110 years it’s been serving food.  According to Jacoby’s history, many of these dishes were created in the building’s spacious upstairs, which was once a law library and the apartment in which the original owners, Albert and Mina Jacoby, lived.  The traditional German dishes are still served today (from Mina’s original recipes, no less), and the second floor also boasts an incredible feature: the original stained glass windows bearing the couple’s names.
Manager Shannon Miner has been with the bar for two and a half years, and considers Jacoby’s a comfort; someplace like Cheers, where “everybody knows your name.  We really do — come in once, and you’re a regular,” she said.
That said, I think it’s time to flex some more beer muscles.

Rounds 2.5 and 3: Hobgoblin and Spaten Optimator.
With so many taps just staring back from behind the bar, it’s easy to become overwhelmed.  No worries, though, I handle this problem any time by asking for a sample.  Any beer aficionado cum bartender worth his (or her, in this case) salt will appreciate the patron’s need to try before buying, and provide a shot glass full of the selected brew.
Hobgoblin, at 5.2% ABV, is beautifully ruby-colored and smooth all the way down.  Overall, it is bitter, with a fruity and hoppy character that is both surprising and pleasing.  I only had a shot, but I know a future pint when I taste one.
My second sample (so gracious are the bartenders at Jacoby’s: I hemmed over this one for several minutes before settling), the Spaten Optimator, didn’t impress me quite as much as Round 2.5.  Although its appearance was much clearer, and its ABV higher, at 7.2%, the taste just fell flat.  A Dopplebock, Optimator is a traditional German beer with hints of roasted malt and chocolate.
It is at this point that I am informed I can make my very own six-pack of bottled beers, and bring them home with me.  Just one more thing Jacoby’s does to make its patrons more enthusiastic about this ancient drink.  Soon, once the bar’s second floor reopens (remodeling), the staff will hold beer tastings so bargoers can learn about their favorite types of beer and sample styles from around the world.  Right now I’m sticking to the States.

Round 4: Goose Island Pere Jaques.
On the Goose Island web site, this beer is considered a “perfect alternative to a glass of vintage port.”  The bottle is subtle, clean, and the taste is strong.  A Belgian style Abbey Ale, Pere Jaques is 9.0% ABV and it shows.  Even split between two people, hard work is made of finishing the 22 ounce bottle.  The beer’s intensity is fairly average, though the aftertaste is a long, rough ride.  I don’t know if this one will make its way into my pint glass in the future, but having the bottle on the bar invokes a sort of…high-class feeling.

Round 5 (the final sud): Rogue Chipotle.
A cloudy, amber ale brewed with roasted chipotle peppers that brings a tear to the eye.  Literally.  This spicy drink isn’t as powerful as some beers made with peppers, but it does pack a punch.  At 5.5% ABV it’s light enough to finish up the night and smooth enough to inspire some further research: according to Rogue Ales’ web site, this beer is dedicated to Spanish author Juan de la Cueva, who, in 1575, wrote of a Mexican dish that combined seedless chipotles with ale.  My glass is raised.
All in all, the experience had at Jacoby’s Biergarten (for the traditional German in us all) is one to be had again and again.  Being able to prop my elbows up on a bar that has been in use since 1904 and enjoy a classic German beer is something special, and Detroit certainly knows it.  For the staff at Jacoby’s, just knowing they’re part of the city’s history is enough.
“Whenever anyone asks me where a good place is to go downtown, I just say, ‘Well…’” said Miner.  “I have to say Jacoby’s.  It’s got a great personality.”

For more info: Jacoby’s 624 Brush Street Detroit (313) 962-7067
As published on Examiner.com