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| Michigan beer is wholly appreciated at this historic pub. |
The foundation of the building, on Woodward just south of Campus Martius, is pre-Civil War and the location itself has seen many changes since it became a part of downtown. Originally the Traub Bros. & Co. jewelry store, it was later a men’s clothing store and then the Grand Trunk Railway’s ticket office, in 1910. In 1935 the Metropole Hotel turned it into a bar, and it has remained a pub ever since.
Detroit legend has it that Harry Houdini owned a magic shop in the lower level of the same building, but that is currently unconfirmed.
The bar features 14 Michigan beers on tap, with dozens more in bottles, as well as the obvious standbys. Cycling out the taps every four weeks or so makes it practically a new pub each month, so I think I should take advantage of what’s here while I can.
Round One: North Peak Diabolical IPA.
A nice, rusty color and mild head are warmly deceiving, which any drinker will discover with the first sip of this beer. The taste is sharp and bitter, with a mild zest to its finish. In researching this beer I discovered that the brewery it is produced in, in Traverse City, has been around since 1899 but the building was, originally, known as Big Daylight Candy Factory. I can’t think of a cooler item to switch to, as products go, than from candy to beer.
It is at this time my new friend, assistant manager and head bartender David Gregory, informs me that perhaps the Diabolical IPA wasn’t the very best way I could begin a night of professional beer tasting, since it’s so strong and might desensitize my taste buds. Too late. I figure I might as well visit the opposite end of the beer spectrum, so it’s on to number two.
Round Two: Dark Horse Too Cream Stout.
Oh my. Pitch black and reeking of chocolate, this is just happiness in a glass. It is my belief that a stout is not a stout until its head is nearly as brown as its body, and this is just beautiful. Stout beers, and cream stouts especially, can range in ABV from low, like Guinness, to high, which I’d consider this one to be, at 8%. I’d say it’s become my new, current favorite, but I know there are a lot of beers in the…well, on tap, so I’d better explore my options.
Round Three: Short’s The Magician.
The Short’s Brewing Company’s website claims their Magician is “the eloquent, swift and skillful master who makes things happen,” but I’m just not feeling this one. A dark red London ale, the Magician is smooth, with almost a bourbon taste and mouthfeel that lasts all the way down. To be honest, I feel genuinely surprised each time I take a sip of this 6% ABV enigma. The aftertaste is quick, mild and a relief. I think I need a break after that one.
While the Grand Trunk is known for being a destination beer bar, it is also trying to make its mark with beer education. On Saturday, December 19 the pub will be holding its second Dinner Club outing, pairing different beers with four different courses, all served in the space adjoining the bar, which the pub recently purchased. Attendees can look forward to gourmet meals prepared and combined with beers designed to accentuate each dish’s flavors.
If a guy were looking to take his lady on a date that would be fun for both of them, I’d say he hit the jackpot with that dinner.
Round Four: Arcadia Nut Brown.
I thought I’d never met a brown ale I didn’t like, but the sharp initial taste of this one put me off immediately. Letting it sit, the smoothness and solid, malty flavors come through and make its finish pretty pleasant. I can’t say I discovered much “nuttiness” to this one, nor can I say I’ve found a new best brown ale friend, but at 5.6% ABV it packs a nice, easy punch and left me fairly satisfied.
Round Five: Arcadia Hop Rocket.
When researching the Grand Trunk Pub I came across this name and after checking out the label on Arcadia’s website, I knew I had to have it: a 9% ABV Imperial IPA with so much dry, hoppy flavor my tongue almost dried out in my mouth. I love that. It pours clear and orange, with a small head and sharp smell. It has a highly carbonated feel and texture, which adds interest. I’ll be coming back again for this one.
In addition to all the Grand Trunk has to offer — history, delicious beer and food, assistance in learning about new brews — it is also a Cheers Detroit Community Scrip Reserve Bank. Patrons can exchange U.S. currency for Scrip, or Scrip for U.S. currency. The bills are at par with the U.S. Dollar, and currently, there is $4,500 worth of Detroit Cheers in circulation. Motor City Brewing Works and the Park Bar, both downtown, are also Reserves and at least 30 Detroit businesses accept this form of currency.
Yes, that’s right, Detroit has its own money.
“The Grand Trunk is really event-driven, being so close to Campus Martius,” said Gregory. ”This is a way to promote local, downtown business.”
Usually, Cheers are purchased in $3 increments, which is perfect for a pint at a great downtown bar.
Round Six (seriously, this is a lot of beer): Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA.
For how high in ABV this beauty is — another 9% — I am surprised at how smooth its initial taste is. This is big, bold and easily hides its alcohol content in sweet hops and mild carbonation. Dangerous and exhausting.
Three hours after arriving at the Grand Trunk Pub and I’m in love. And a little buzzed. The prospect of the taps changing out soon is exciting, as is the upcoming Dinner Club, and I can’t help but feel proud of the city for housing such a gem for such a long time. With this much history packed into a little bar, it’s enough to warm the heart, even during a Detroit winter.
The Grand Trunk Pub is located at 612 Woodward Avenue, and can be reached at (313) 961-3043.
As published on Examiner.com
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